Layers of tragedy, in a cemetery and in the mountains

Finally, we turned around and set off on the main road, passing power lines that had been knocked down. But before us, a man got out of the truck in front, lit a cigarette, and unleashed a monumental tirade of blasphemy.

The man, Arsen Nalbanzyan, told me that in the district of Armenia where he lives, 31 of the 36 villages were Azerbaijani during Soviet times. “We lived normally,” he said of Azerbaijanis and Armenians, describing shared marriages and being the godparents of each other’s children. Even in recent years, he said, he would get drunk with Azerbaijani friends in Moscow and St. Petersburg.

It was the country’s elites, he said, who instigated hatred among the people for their own ends.

“It was all done for money, for money,” Nalbanzyan said, his face lit by the car headlights, the air around us thick with smoke from burning houses in the city. freezing night. “They weren’t thinking about people – people like us.”

“And now” – expletive – “who knows what’s going to happen?”

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