Editor’s Note: As more people work from home, Bloomberg Pursuits runs a weekly lunch break that highlights a remarkable recipe from a favorite cookbook and the hack that makes it awesome.
Once upon a time, chefs kept their recipes secret and tucked them into their jackets.
Now you can’t make her do it halt Share recipes. In April, the Michelin Guide encouraged top chefs, from Massimo Bottura to Eric Ripert to Ferran Adrià, to use social media to provide instructions for their dishes at home. The #michelinguideathome strived to help foodies find new ways that go beyond banana bread to unleash their culinary energy.
A new cookbook extends the mantra of thinking like a professional cook in your kitchen-living room. Dan Kluger is a veteran of some of New York’s most popular restaurants: Union Square Café, Tabla, and ABC Kitchen. In 2017, he opened his own restaurant, Loring Place, serving a wide variety of deceptively simple, addicting dishes like crispy pumpkin fries with lemon parmesan aioli, a Sicilian-style grandma pizza, and grilled lamb rib chops.
Im The Hunt for Taste: Techniques and Recipes to Cook FearlesslyWritten by Nick Fauchald (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt; $ 35), the James Beard-winning chef reveals recipes for all of his best-sellers, including grandma pie and squash fries. In addition to these valuable recipes, Kluger wants to teach home cooks to step into the mindset of a professional and view elements like texture as part of a dish.
The versatility of the different parts of a dish is important. For example, the lemon and cheese aioli that goes well with his pumpkin fries is ideal as a crudité dip or as a sauce for fish and pasta. “I wanted to call the book“ The Payoff ”, says Kluger of the adaptability of the 190 recipes in his book.Think of it as an updated version of the groundbreaking Think like a cook, by Tom Colicchio, the 1997 volume by the top chef judge and restaurant attorney that taught people to think about what to get out of roasting a tomato and how to use it in meals. “This book is meant to instill a whole new level of self-confidence,” says Kluger, whose patient approach would make him an excellent cooking school teacher if he decided to move out of restaurants.
One recipe that underscores Kluger’s way of thinking is chicken nuggets with a maple and chilli glaze. At Loring Place he serves the fried canapés with celery root puree and homemade pickled radishes. The result is contrasting crunches against a creamy vegetable background. But Kluger realized that when the chicken nuggets recipe was fine-tuned, it bore an uncanny resemblance to the chicken made by Chinese take-out favorite General Tso.
Kluger landed on this sweet and hot version when testing icings and trying to use up the chilies he had on hand. His chicken nuggets are great little crispy bites that cook quickly and then soak in a maple syrup glaze topped with different types of chilies. Eat them hot – like General Tso’s chicken, they don’t like being reheated.
The following recipe is adapted from Chasing taste by Dan Kluger. Tip for testers: In addition to changing the celery root for rice, the following recipe changes the original recipe by requiring pure chili powder. If you want to think like Kluger, buy dried ancho and pasilla chiles, roast them, and then grind them.
Chicken nuggets with maple-chile glaze
For 4 to 6 people
1 TBSP. pure chili powder preferably a mixture of ancho and pasilla (see note)
½ cup maple syrup
½ cup of fresh lime juice
1 red finger chili, pitted and finely chopped (approx. 2 tablespoons)
2 TEA SPOONS. red pepper flakes
Vegetable or rapeseed oil for frying
1 pound boneless, skin-on chicken thighs (about 6 thighs), cut into 2-inch pieces
½ cup of cornstarch
¼ tsp. baking powder
Chopped coriander (optional)
Cooked rice for serving
In a small saucepan, combine the chili powder, maple syrup, lime juice and 1 teaspoon of salt. Bring to a boil and cut in half until the texture of the maple syrup has thickened. Add finger chilli and paprika flakes and let cool completely.
In a medium saucepan, heat 2 inches of oil to 360F. (If you don’t have a deep-frying thermometer, add a kernel of popcorn to the oil, which will burst at around 360 ° C.) In a shallow bowl, whisk together the cornstarch, baking powder, and 1 teaspoon of salt. Add the chicken pieces to the cornstarch mixture, shake off any excess and transfer to a baking sheet. Working in batches so that you don’t crowd the pieces in the pan, fry the chicken until golden brown and cook through for 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a bowl and immediately toss the maple chilli glaze until well coated. Garnish with coriander if desired and serve with rice.
Note: Pure chilli powder is available at most specialty markets or can be made by grinding dried chillies in a spice grinder. Don’t use chili powder that is flavored with spices such as cumin.
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